SLEEP: Hotel Chandela. Five stars just for the nightly outdoor BBQ.
PEEP: Panna National Park. Stunning cliffs, reminiscent of the Grand Canyon—minus groups of tourists in fanny packs.
MEET: Amit Bajpai. The owner of the Gole Market sari shop will bring you home for lunch, where you’ll meet his sweet wife and kids. Ask nicely and they just may take you to a wedding.
SEE: Western Group of Temples. The World Heritage Site is worth the trip alone.
EAT: Mediterraneo. A pretty rooftop with pretty delicious pizza.